General Care For Bunnies Rabbits make wonderful animal companions in the home. But contrary to common belief, they are not " low maintenance " pets. Please read this information to learn the basics before you decide to adopt a rabbit!
Neuter Your Bunny! Neutering not only helps curb overpopulation of domestic rabbits, it dramatically decreases the chance of reproductive cancers, makes litterbox training easier, and reduces chewing and territorial behavior, such as spraying.
Litterbox Training Most rabbits can be litter-trained and allowed supervised freedom in the house. Young rabbits that are less than three months old are the easiest to train. Start with a large cat litterbox; put newspaper and/or rabbit-safe litter on the bottom and cover it with lots of fresh pine shavings or timothy hay. Since rabbit usually urinates in one corner of his/her space, this is where you place the litterbox. Once the bunny uses the box reliably, you can let him out into a larger area, putting out a second box. Keep bunny confined to a 4'X4' space until he is very good with is box.
Handling Handle with care! Rabbits have fragile skeletons and can be seriously injured if dropped or allowed to fall. When picked up, a scared rabbit may kick out with her powerful hind legs and fall to the floor, breaking his/her back. A child struggling to hold a wiggly bunny could be badly scratched or bitten and the rabbit injured. For this reason and others, children should always be supervised with
rabbits. Also, because rabbits are prey animals, they would rather not be picked up, but prefer that you meet them at their level and pet them on the floor. To pick up a rabbit correctly, place one hand under the rabbit behind the front legs and the other hand just above the bunny's tail. Hug the rabbit against your body firmly but gently.
Never pick up a rabbit of any age by the ears - this is very painful and can cause permanent injury.
Neuter Your Bunny! Neutering not only helps curb overpopulation of domestic rabbits, it dramatically decreases the chance of reproductive cancers, makes litterbox training easier, and reduces chewing and territorial behavior, such as spraying.
Litterbox Training Most rabbits can be litter-trained and allowed supervised freedom in the house. Young rabbits that are less than three months old are the easiest to train. Start with a large cat litterbox; put newspaper and/or rabbit-safe litter on the bottom and cover it with lots of fresh pine shavings or timothy hay. Since rabbit usually urinates in one corner of his/her space, this is where you place the litterbox. Once the bunny uses the box reliably, you can let him out into a larger area, putting out a second box. Keep bunny confined to a 4'X4' space until he is very good with is box.
Handling Handle with care! Rabbits have fragile skeletons and can be seriously injured if dropped or allowed to fall. When picked up, a scared rabbit may kick out with her powerful hind legs and fall to the floor, breaking his/her back. A child struggling to hold a wiggly bunny could be badly scratched or bitten and the rabbit injured. For this reason and others, children should always be supervised with
rabbits. Also, because rabbits are prey animals, they would rather not be picked up, but prefer that you meet them at their level and pet them on the floor. To pick up a rabbit correctly, place one hand under the rabbit behind the front legs and the other hand just above the bunny's tail. Hug the rabbit against your body firmly but gently.
Never pick up a rabbit of any age by the ears - this is very painful and can cause permanent injury.
Never chase your rabbit, or use force. That will only teach he/her to fear you. Always be sensitive and gentle to your rabbit!
It's Very Important to Clip your Rabbit Nails.
It's Very Important to Clip your Rabbit Nails.
We Recommend Clipping Them Every 6 to 8 weeks Diet: Your rabbit's diet should include lots of fresh timothy hay and mold free, plain commercial rabbit pellets, and dust free (no nuts, seeds, etc...) and fresh, washed vegetables and leafy greens. Romaine lettuce, carrot tops, dandelions, are all good. Treats include small slice of apple, pear or other fruit, or pieces of carrot. Do not feed human treats like crackers and cookies. Fresh clean water should be available at all times in a bowl or a water bottle. It is absolutely critical that your rabbit have unlimited access to fresh water. Please note: Rabbit digestion is very sensitive, so you must introduce new foods gradually. Young rabbits age 6 months and under should only be fed hay, rabbit pellets and water. NO FRUITS, NO TREATS.
Your Rabbit Should Idealy Eat a Ball Of Hay the Size of Themselves EVERYDAY!
Water must be provided for the full 24 hours in the day.
Indoor Housing The cage should measure a minimum of 2'X4' per rabbit, and the rabbit must get daily exercise time. The cage should allow adequate ventilation (no aquariums). In cold weather you do not want direct drafts blowing on your bunny. In summer you have to protect from heat stress, since rabbits cool down through theirs ears, if you find your bunny panting execessively and very wet around the face, move it to a cooler spot, ice down its ears (ice cube rubbed over them), put an ice bottle in the cage, keep fans moving air, and disturb the bunny as little as possible. This is not the time to play with the bunny, either!
Indoor Bunny-Proofing Keep the floor clear of anything that can harm your bunny, including but not limited to house plants, staples, and children's toys. Young bunny usually want to chew, dig and get in trouble. The good news: once your bunny is past adolescence, he/she will calm down!
Sanitation Sanitation, or the availability of a clean living environment, is extremely important so as to maintain healthy rabbits and to avoid the spread of disease.
Cage Care Note that the tray needs to be emptied once every 2 to 3 days, or it will be very stinky. Wipe off any fur that get stuck on the cage floor, or any faeces that yo see hanging by hair/fur. If you do find them hanging on the cage, it's a good sign because the rabbit is getting enough fibre, and won't get hairballs. Clean the bottom of the cage with vinegar to kill any germs or bacteria. Any type is wonderful for cleaning cages, dishes and trays. Vinegar will remove the most stubborn hard water and calcium build ups. Also acts as a mild disinfectant. You can also use a cloth soaked with vinegar to wipe any area where your rabbit has urinated on during litterbox training (or where you do not want them to urinated on ) as the smell puts many rabbits off.
Exercise Exercise is very important to a bunny's health. They will not get enough exercise in their cage. Opportunities for exercise should be available daily if possible or a few times a week. The bunny not received enough exercise that would related many health problems.
KEEP YOUR BUNNY HEALTHY BY PROVIDING HIM/HER, A PLACE TO HAVE FUN
Water must be provided for the full 24 hours in the day.
Indoor Housing The cage should measure a minimum of 2'X4' per rabbit, and the rabbit must get daily exercise time. The cage should allow adequate ventilation (no aquariums). In cold weather you do not want direct drafts blowing on your bunny. In summer you have to protect from heat stress, since rabbits cool down through theirs ears, if you find your bunny panting execessively and very wet around the face, move it to a cooler spot, ice down its ears (ice cube rubbed over them), put an ice bottle in the cage, keep fans moving air, and disturb the bunny as little as possible. This is not the time to play with the bunny, either!
Indoor Bunny-Proofing Keep the floor clear of anything that can harm your bunny, including but not limited to house plants, staples, and children's toys. Young bunny usually want to chew, dig and get in trouble. The good news: once your bunny is past adolescence, he/she will calm down!
Sanitation Sanitation, or the availability of a clean living environment, is extremely important so as to maintain healthy rabbits and to avoid the spread of disease.
Cage Care Note that the tray needs to be emptied once every 2 to 3 days, or it will be very stinky. Wipe off any fur that get stuck on the cage floor, or any faeces that yo see hanging by hair/fur. If you do find them hanging on the cage, it's a good sign because the rabbit is getting enough fibre, and won't get hairballs. Clean the bottom of the cage with vinegar to kill any germs or bacteria. Any type is wonderful for cleaning cages, dishes and trays. Vinegar will remove the most stubborn hard water and calcium build ups. Also acts as a mild disinfectant. You can also use a cloth soaked with vinegar to wipe any area where your rabbit has urinated on during litterbox training (or where you do not want them to urinated on ) as the smell puts many rabbits off.
Exercise Exercise is very important to a bunny's health. They will not get enough exercise in their cage. Opportunities for exercise should be available daily if possible or a few times a week. The bunny not received enough exercise that would related many health problems.
KEEP YOUR BUNNY HEALTHY BY PROVIDING HIM/HER, A PLACE TO HAVE FUN
Rabbits are herbivores. In human terms they are vegans; i.e. they eat no animal products, flesh, dairy, or eggs. Their digestive tracts are not equipped to handle anything but a plant based diet. There are some plants that they cannot eat or can eat only in limited quantities. The importance of a correct diet cannot be over emphasized. Ninety-five percent of all rabbit vet visits are related to improper diet. Diets for sick, geriatric, baby, and pregnant rabbits differ from the diets for healthy adult rabbits. Besides plenty of clean fresh water, it is important to feed your rabbit a diet that is:
HIGH IN FIBER
The fiber recommendation for companion rabbits is a crude fiber level of 13-20% with a level of 12.5% indigestible fiber. LOW IN CALCIUM
The dietary level recommendation for companion rabbits of calcium is 0.6-1%. LOW IN CARBOHYDRATES
The overload of rapidly digestible carbohydrates (for example, sugars) in the large intestine increases the likelihood of digestive disorders.
CLICK PICTURE TO ENLARGE The following dietary requirements are for an adult, healthy rabbit. If you think of your rabbit's diet as a food pyramid, about 80% of it should be hay, about 15% fresh vegetables, 4.5% pellets, and .5% treats.
HAY
Hay should be good quality Timothy, orchard, or mixed grasses. These types of hay should always be available in large quantities to your rabbit. He/she may eat unlimited amounts of it.
Alfalfa hay may be given only in limited quantities as a TREAT because it is too fattening for an adult rabbit. However, rabbits prefer alfalfa hay, and, being the rascals that they are, may start to refuse Timothy hay to hold out for the alfalfa hay. If you are easily manipulated by your rabbit, you may find it easier not to feed alfalfa hay at all.
Hay comes in two cuts. First cut hay tends to be stalky, like straw. Second cut hay tends to be finer and more grass-like. Your rabbit will let you know which s/he prefers. Quality hay can be obtained from feed stores, rabbit rescue organizations, and by mail from rabbit supply stores. Click on Links to find out where.
Do not store hay in airtight containers or closed plastic bags because hay can become moldy. MOLD IS LETHAL TO RABBITS.
VEGETABLES
A general guideline is to feed one to two cups of vegetables per 5 pounds of rabbit per day. Rabbits should be fed twice per day, once in the morning and once in the evening, ideally around dawn and dusk when they are most active. Some vegetables may produce too much gas or bloating in some rabbits (beets, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, and radishes). Some vegetables are high in calcium and should be fed no more than three times per week (carrot tops, Chinese parsley, clover, collard greens, dandelion greens, kale, and spinach). Some vegetables are very high in sugar (carrots) and should be given only as a treat, if at all.
These vegetables can be part of any bunny salad: arugula, basil, beet greens, bok choy, Boston lettuce, Chinese broccoli, cilantro, dill, escarole, fennel (anise), flat parsley, kohl rabi tops, lovage, lemon balm, mint (any variety but Pennyroyal which is toxic), mizuna, mustard greens, oregano, parsnips, radishes and tops, romaine lettuce, red leaf lettuce, rapini, snow peas, sweet green peppers, and thyme.
PELLETS
Pellets are not necessary in a diet that consists of hay and a wide variety of vegetables. However, if your rabbit is accustomed to pellets and you wish to keep them in his/her diet or to insure that your rabbit gets all the necessary vitamins and minerals, give Timothy hay-based pellets that are high in fiber, 18% or more, and low in calcium content. RabbitWise recommends Bunny Basics/T made by the Oxbow Hay Company. They are available in some vet's office who treat rabbits and from the Oxbow web site (see link this page).
The amount of pellets fed should be based on the rabbit's body weight: 2-4 pounds, 1/8 cup daily; 5-7 pounds, 1/4 cup daily; 8-10 pounds, 1/2 cup daily; 10-15 pounds, 1/2 cup daily. OVERFEEDING OF PELLETS AND FEEDING OF POOR QUALITY PELLETS ARE SIGNIFICANT FACTORS IN RABBIT HEALTH PROBLEMS.
Buy small quantities of pellets and refrigerate or store in a cool, dry place to keep from spoiling. Read more about pellets:
TREATS
Treats are important to mention because rabbits are accomplished beggars and are very hard to resist. They are also big fans of carbohydrates and are not above stealing to get them. Give your rabbit healthy treats of fresh or dried fruit without added sugar or preservatives, no more than one level tablespoon per day. Though much loved by rabbits, bananas, carrots, anything made from corn, oats, raisins and human junk food are high in sugar and are best avoided. LOVE YOUR RABBIT ENOUGH TO SAY NO.
Some words of caution: CARBOHYDRATES ARE NECESSARY FOR GOOD HEALTH. Do not deprive your rabbit of all carbohydrates. Treats are also an excellent way to reward good behavior, to further the bonding process between you and your rabbit, and to help you evaluate whether or not your rabbit is feeling well.
VITAMINS and SALT OR MINERAL BLOCKS
Vitamins, and salt or mineral blocks are not necessary on the diet described above.
WATER
Water should be changed daily. Rabbits appreciate filtered or distilled water. NOTE: After surgery, some rabbits who were accustomed to drinking from a water bottle will no longer do so. Be sure to make water in a crock accessible to your rabbit after a surgery.
NEVER FEED RABBITS THE FOLLOWING:
bamboo shoots, beans, breakfast cereals, chocolate, citrus fruit, coffee plants, corn or corn products, grains, iceberg lettuce, nuts, Pennyroyal mint, onions, peas, any kind of potatoes or potato peels, rhubarb or rhubarb leaves, seeds, tea leaves, or food so old that you would not eat it yourself.
BABY RABBITS
After baby rabbits are weaned (6-8 weeks), they should be fed unlimited alfalfa hay and alfalfa pellets. Oxbow and Kay Tee Exact make a good quality alfalfa pellet.
Some vets recommend putting baby rabbits on Timothy based pellets right away to avoid the problem of the rabbit switching over to the Timothy hay ones when they are older. Again, if you are easily manipulated by your rabbit, you may want to avoid feeding alfalfa hay in the first place. Allowing your rabbit to eat a bad diet is the major factor in rabbit health problems. No known detrimental health problems have been associated with rabbits who have eaten Timothy hay all of their lives.
Vegetables can be slowly introduced one at a time after the baby is about 3 months old.
GERIATRIC RABBITS
Diets for geriatric rabbits depend on their medical conditions. Consult with your veterinarian for specific recommendations.
CHANGES IN DIET
Rabbits do not tolerate sudden changes well. If you have to make changes in your rabbit's diet, introduce them slowly over a period of weeks. GROWING A GARDEN FOR YOUR RABBITS Want to garden for your rabbits?
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